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Thursday, September 21, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Trash to Treasure Bar Stools

The inspiration for this week's Trash to Treasure project actually came during a walk through the furniture department of a local store a while back. I found these super cute real life size bar stools that were made to look like they had been made from a bottle cap. I knew this idea would be fun to translate into 1/12th scale.

The main things you need for the bar stools are: a bottle cap, some 12 gauge wire, a scrap of foamcore, and 4 fancy toothpicks.

Other supplies and tools include: pen/pencil, craft knife, glue that will hold metal and plastic together (and not melt the foamcore) and some Tacky glue.

A circle template will be useful too.

I start us out by making a jig to help us assemble the stool. I do highly recommend you make this first even if you are only making one bar stool. It will not only help with getting the legs spread out correctly but it will also support the wire ring while the glue dries. I tried to make my first stool without the aid of a jig and quickly found out it was really hard to get everything where I wanted it.

Remember you aren't limited to bottle caps from beer, in my grocery store there are also several brands of soda in glass bottles with caps. Or just go to the craftstore and get the bottle caps there.

Sunday, September 17, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Refrigerator Part 1

A while back we made the corner roombox and at that time I told you the main reason I was building that roombox was to give me a good backdrop to photograph the projects I make for tutorials. Since a lot of what I do make is food and/or kitchen related I decided to make a set of kitchen pieces so that I can turn that roombox into a kitchen for photos. You can use these same pieces in your dollhouse or roombox to create a kitchen.

This week we are going to start making a refrigerator for the dollhouse. I have once again created a PDF pattern for the project and it can be found here: page 1 pattern and page 2 pattern.

Be sure to print these pages at 100% on standard 8 ½” by 11” printer paper and also check the test square in the bottom corner (it should measure exactly 1”)

For this project you will need:

the pdf pattern
paperboard (cracker or cereal box)
white poster board
cardstock in the color you want your finished refrigerator to be (mine is white)
2 cocktail straws
tacky glue
glue stick
craft knife
straight edge
cutting mat
safe gluing surface
skinny sticks
1/16” by 1/16” strip wood
white paint
double sided tape
clamps as needed
something to cut the stripwood

Note: I have a horrid feeling I am forgetting something but I have gone over everything and can't figure out what I forgot for the list. I will correct it as I figure it out.

This project is similar to the microwave we made last week in several ways. I tried to make it as easy as possible and still give you a project you could be proud of when completed. Sorry the video got so long, I tried to find a logical spot to cut it but couldn't find a spot that made sense. I will try next week to be more aware of how long I am filming and keep it shorter.

I think I went over the steps pretty thoroughly in the video. If you have questions feel free to ask.

The following pictures I hope will help to clarify where I made the cuts for the door cover and also the placement of the supports inside the refrigerator.
straws glued in place
cuts at the corner of the door covering

ignore that I have my placement line for center divider in the wrong place

supports in place

shelves in place

Next week we will get the doors on and the interior shelves in place. I am not sure at this point if we will finish completely next week or if we will be having a part 3 for this project.

Saturday, September 16, 2017

A Little Bit of a Rant and Things to Come

First let me make this clear I love making videos for all of you to watch and I will continue to do so. Stopping the videos is not even a thought that I will entertain at this point.

I think all of us that watch YouTube videos realize that the ads that play on the videos are there to allow the video creators to receive a little bit of money back. I mean we don't make much on a video but every little bit helps. I have been on YouTube since July 2010. I have pretty close to 400 videos up on my channel and I try to post 2 most weeks. I know over the summer I was not as good about that as I should have been. (sorry)

Those videos take a lot of time and many of them are expensive to make. The income I get from the ads on the videos should offset that cost at least. And some months it has more than offset those costs. Lately however I have seen a trend on YouTube of more people watching my videos but my income from the ads is not reflecting that. In fact it has gone down.

Also YouTube has been in overdrive trying to catch videos that are not appropriate for all audiences or all advertisers. In the process they are really hurting those of us that are trying to make a little money to pay for our videos. I have had videos flagged by their automated system as not “advertiser friendly” almost every week for the last month or so. I try to keep on top of my list and as soon as a video receives a flag for not being appropriate I request a review. The review process can take anywhere from a few hours to a week. And up until the video is cleared I get no money for the ads that should be placed on it. Since most videos get flagged when they release this means that the first day when most of the views take place I am not getting any income from the video. And it isn't just me, there are hundreds of YouTubers in the same boat with me. Some of them with hundreds of videos at a time making no money.

In case you are wondering the things that are supposed cause a video to be deemed not not advertiser friendly are spelled out on the site. Among the things that are supposed to make a video not advertiser friendly are: controversial issues and sensitive events, drugs and dangerous products or substances, harmful or dangerous acts, hateful content, inappropriate language, inappropriate use of family entertainment characters, incendiary and demeaning content,sexually suggestive content and/or violence.

If you have watched any of my videos I am sure you know my videos don't fit any of those categories. I don't think I have said any thing worse than “crap” as far as curse words go. So it would be funny that so many are getting flagged if it weren't for the fact that it is really starting to hurt my bottom line.

So I have decided to go the route that many of my favorite YouTube creators have gone and that is to sign up on Patreon. The Patreon page on Wikipedia explains it like this “Patreon (/ˈpeɪtriɒn/) is a membership platform that provides business tools for creators to run a subscription content service, as well as ways for artists to build relationships and provide exclusive experiences to their subscribers, or "patrons."[1] It is popular among YouTube videographerswebcomic artists, writers, podcasters, musicians, and other categories of creators who post regularly online.[2] It allows artists to receive funding directly from their fans, or patrons, on a recurring basis or per work of art.[3] The company, started by musician Jack Conte[4] and developer Sam Yam[4] in 2013, is based in San Francisco.[5]

So I am in the process of setting up my page and figuring out what to offer to my fans for their kind donations. I am going to have mine set up as a monthly pledge and the amounts will start at $1. So for a dollar a month you could really help me to keep bringing videos and tutorials to you.

There will be special things that the patrons get in return for pledging money I am working on my list and I will have a blog post all about it shortly. I just wanted to let everyone know ahead of time.

I totally understand that not everyone can participate. I know money is tight for a lot of us. I still love everyone of you no matter what so don't feel pressured but it would really help if you can sign up when I get the page up.

Thanks so much for reading this post and for all the emotional support for all the years. I am looking forward to making a lot more videos over the coming years.

Thursday, September 14, 2017

Tools for Making Dollhouse Miniatures-Pointy Tools

This week for our tools video I decided not to talk about a specific tool but a class of tools that really aren't tools. Does that make sense?? These are items that I find invaluable for crafting, especially miniatures. They are pointy tools.

So what exactly is a pointy tool? I am using this term for any item that I can use to craft with that has a pointed end. My very favorite is my dental pick. I love that dental pick and I can't find another one that is just the right shape. I actually had to do some repairs on mine a while back by adding some glue to the top where the metal comes out of the handle.

Second most used is just a plain old toothpick. These are so useful for applying glue or paint or for texturing clay or a million other uses.

Next would be a toss up between the double ended knitting needle and a sewing pin. They are very different but both are used a lot.

So how do you use these tools. Think of them as an extension of your fingers when working with small things. You can get those points into places your fingers won't even come close to going. You can pick small things up with them, you can apply glues or paints in small areas, and you can use them to mark clay or score paper. There are probably a million other ways I use these tools too.

So look around at what you have on hand and see what pointy things can become tools for your next project. 

Sunday, September 10, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Microwave Oven

This week I decided to make a microwave oven for the dollhouse. I originally planned for this to be a single video so that is the way I filmed it. Then I started preparing to edit the video and found that I had pretty close to an hour of footage. I posted the question on the Facebook group and took opinions for a while on what the majority of people that responded thought would be the best option. So this week instead of just one Sunday Tutorial video you get 2 of them. I am planning to schedule the release of the videos to both be the same day but a few hours apart. So if part 2 isn't available when you watch part 1 just check back in a little while. I put both links at the top of this blog post but the 2nd one won't work until the video goes live. I did it this way in case I have issues getting both to upload today.

So for this project I created a PDF of the pattern pieces. You can find the download here. This is the first time I have done this so please excuse any bumps in the process. I am hopping to be able to offer more things to you this way for future projects. It will save you having to measure everything you will just be able to print off the PDF and use the pattern pieces to create the project.

When printing the page be sure that you have your printer set to U.S. Letter size (8 ½” by 11”) and that your printer is set to print at 100%. Then after printing check that the box at the bottom right corner of the page measures exactly 1”. If it does you are all set.

For this project you will need the following materials:

Printout of the PDF
Double sided tape
Paperboard (I used a cracker box)
White poster board
Tacky Glue
Jewel-It glue or other glue designed for plastic (optional, you can probably just use tacky glue)
White Craft Paint
Triple Thick or other gloss finsih (optional)
Plastic from clear packaging
Wide white ribbon (I recommend Satin) between ¾” and 1” wide (mine was 7/8”)

Tools needed:
Craft knife
Straight edge
Cutting mat
Emery board
Small clamps (I used binder clips and clothes pins)
Small paint brush
Tweezers (optional)

A few notes on the assembly of the microwave oven.

With the exception of the piece marked “front” all the sides with the Poster board will go to the inside. This is the finished side for the inside of the microwave. On the “front” piece only the poster board provides the finished side that goes against the door.

When you attach the “side” pieces make sure that the word side is either correctly oriented or is totally upside down. If it is sideways it won't fit correctly.

Take you time on the cutting and assembly and you should have a piece to be proud of.

Thursday, September 7, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Trash to Treasure Chandelier

This week's Trash to Treasure project is super easy to make like all Trash to Treasure projects should be. One really nice thing about this one is that it is easy to adapt either smaller or larger (I think Barbie 1/6th scale is probably the largest though) because the fishing hooks come in lots of sizes and so do chandeliers. If you do go smaller in scale you might need to find an alternative to the beads for the globes on the fixture.

The hooks I used this week were size 8 and they came 4 in the package for under $2. The beads are just some cheap plastic ones I got at Walmart several years ago. 

As for hanging your fixture I came up with this of course it will only work if you have a floor covering in the room above that you can lift up (like carpet). Make a hole in the ceiling where you want the fixture to hang from. Then thread the chain up through the hole to the floor of the room above. Use a staple to attach the chain to the floor. I made holes for the staple with a push pin then put the staple through with my fingers. Cover this with tape and lay the carpet back down over it. This would be great in a room box too.

Sunday, September 3, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Mug Tree

This week I figured we had better provide the dolls with somewhere to put all those mugs we made last week. Did you get as carried away as I did on that project? I found it to be one of my very favorite mini projects in a long time and just kept making them. I haven't counted but I know I made dozens. I think the dolls are going to need a lot of mug trees. LOL

Anyway this is another easy project and I made both of the ones I showed you on the video with stuff I already had on hand. So go through your stash and find items to use.

The biggest piece you will need is the upright portion of the mug tree. For the one on the video I used a piece of basswood strip wood that measures ¼” by ¼' you will just need 1 ½” of it but I recommend not cutting it to length until after you drill the holes. I have a much easier time holding the longer piece steady to drill.

For the hooks (?) not sure what to call the part that the mugs hang from I like the fancy toothpicks but regular toothpicks would work too, just sand off the point and maybe put a tiny bead on the end.

For the base anything that is ½” to ¾” across would work, for the brown one I used a little wooden heart and for the one on the video I used a wooden button. This is one place you can get really creative and use up an item from your stash.

The drill bit that I find fits the toothpicks the best is the 5/64th inch size. For the softer woods like I used in this project I find I can just use my fingers and skip the pin vise (and that is a good thing since I have no idea where I put mine)

So I hope you enjoy this project, if you make some mug trees be sure and send my a picture. I love seeing what you are making.

Sunday, August 27, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Mugs

This week I decided to make some mugs for the dollhouse. It seems like a lot of us have seem to collect mugs in real life, either on purpose or it just happens. So I figured it was time for the dolls to join in the fun.

I do have a polymer clay mug tutorial on this channel but I wanted to do something different today. I have a huge amount of cardstock that I use in card making both plain colors and patterns and I decided to see how that would work for making some mugs. I have to say this project is kid of addictive. Once I got the technique down I keep making more, every time I think I am done I see another sheet of paper that I think would be perfect and....

So to start you just need a few things. The cardstock is the obvious one, I am using a medium weight cardstock. The package that one of the sheets came from is labeled as being 65# cardstock. The plain colors that I used today were from those packages at the craftstore that are sold for cardmaking. The patterned paper and the green one were both from those books of cardstock that are sold at the craftstore for card making or scrapbooking.

You will also need a way to cut your cardstock, I do recommend a straight edge, craft knife and self healing mat. For me it is the most accurate way to cut strips of paper.

You will also need some glues, both a glue stick and a liquid glue. I used Tacky glue today but I think a super glue would have been better for the handles but mine was dried up (all 3 bottles)

To form your mugs you will need a #10 knitting needle, I found this to be the perfect size.

A standard hole punch (I think they are about ¼”)

Clear nail polish.

First cut a piece of your cardstock 2” wide, then cut a 3/8” wide strip and a really narrow strip (about 1/16”) for your mug and your handle.

Then just follow the steps in the video.

If you have any questions be sure to ask. 

Thursday, August 24, 2017

Tips for Dollhouse Miniature Crafting- Clay Test

So you might be wondering why you would want/need to do a clay test. I know not everyone will need to do this but it is a useful thing to know how to do.

With most products that you might want to use with your polymer clay you can probably find compatibility information online. But sometimes what you want to use either hasn't been tried by enough people to know for sure or you come up with conflicting results. So knowing how to test for yourself is a really good idea. Especially if you are going to sell the items you make. You don't want to sell something to someone and have it disintegrate a couple of months later.

Before I give a product a green light for using it I test it for at least 6 months, sometimes longer. It can take a while for some of these reactions to happen so be patient. In the long run you will be glad especially if you find that your clay is starting to get soft or sticky.

To begin roll out some scrap clay and use some TLS to adhere it to index cards. This will give you a place to record the information you will need later. Bake this at 235° to 250° for about 10 minutes.

Be sure to record all the information you might want later, at the minimum the date you did the test and the product you are testing. It is much better to record too much information than not enough.

Now just set the cards to side (where you will remember them) make yourself a note of when to check them and let them do their thing. I like to check about once a month for 6 or so months. If I see no changes at all in that time I feel it is safe to use. If I see even small changes starting I give it more time.

I will do my best to report back on the 2 tests I set up in the video over on the Facebook group. 

Sunday, August 20, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Basketball Hoop

So this week we are making the kids in the dollhouse a basketball hoop. I was sitting down watching the news the other night when a commercial came on. I have no idea what it was even for but the focus of the video footage was a group of kids shooting hoops in a driveway. Immediately I thought a basketball hoop would be a great project for this channel. So many houses have these in real life, why not in the mini world too?

I vaguely remember reading an article in one of my old Nutshell News magazines where there was a project that was similar. Rather than spend hours digging through my collection of magazines I just went with my instincts on how to do this.

First stop was our friend Google to get the dimensions of the real thing. Apparently in real life a basketball hoop is about 18” in diameter. That would translate to 1 ½” in mini. I didn't have anything exactly that size but I do have a bunch of these key rings that are 1 ¼” in diameter. I decided to go with one of those. You can fudge a bit down like this on this project because in real life the hoop is so far up on a wall that it appears to be smaller. Have you ever noticed that when you see a basketball hoop in a sporting goods store how they seem huge compared to what you think they should look like. That's because you are used to seeing them from several feet away. I wouldn't go any smaller in size but at the same time I wouldn't go any bigger than 1 ½” either or the hoop runs the risk of looking way too big.

If you want your hoop to be the traditional reddish-orange color paint it before you start the rest of the project. I would suggest either a spray paint, an enamel paint or nail polish for this. Be sure that whatever you use is completely dry before you proceed.

The other component is some string, I like to use crochet thread for these type of projects because it is fairly cheap and seems to be a good size for a lot of projects. We are basically going to be creating a net by doing some simple macrame knotting.

Cut 12 pieces of the string each 12” long and follow what I did in the video. Be sure to apply the glue to the rim to both hold the strings in place around the rim but also to hold the knots tight at the top. Allow this to dry completely.

Now mark ½” away from the rim on each string and tie knots using strings from the pairs of the stings that are next to each other. I hope it made sense in the video. I can't think of a good way to explain it. But you are creating a net just like we used to do to make plant hangers from macrame back in the day.

Keep knotting until the net portion is about 1 ½” long. At this point I sprayed my net with 99% isopropyl alcohol to allow the ink from the Sharpie marker to bleed and make the net look old and really dirty. If you want a new net on yours use an ink that is water based and wash it out.

After your net is dry add a dot of glue to each of the knots in the last row. This will prevent them from coming undone. When the glue is dry give the net a “hair cut” and you are basically done.

For a backboard you need to decide how old you want your hoop to be. I wanted to create the look that maybe dad or grandpa had hung this up so I kept it really basic with a backboard made of a jumbo craft stick. I used the little piece of 1/8” square wood to give me a small “shelf” to glue to.

If you want something more elaborate find a picture of what you want online and create that.

I hope you enjoyed our fun little project today.

Thursday, August 17, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Trash to Treasure Books

This week for Trash to Treasure I thought it would be fun to make some books to fill the bookshelves. These books are intended to be filler either to fill the space until you get enough books to fill your shelves or to fill in bookshelves in projects that require a lot of books. I know I love to have real books in my projects but in reality it just isn't practical to try fill all the shelves that way.

I think these would be really good in either a book store scene or a library, especially if you some shelves that are more in the back of the room.

I wanted to show the books in my bookshelf but I have no idea what scene I have it placed in or if it is in a box between scenes. I didn't have time look for it today either. I am sure you get the idea of how these will look.

To find the pictures of books just go to Google Images and search for bookshelves you should get a bunch of pictures to choose from. Remember if you do this that you can't sell the books or any project with them in it because the photo belongs to someone else. This is only for your own use.

Once you find the picture you want to use save it to your computer and re size it to just a tiny bit shorter than the space between the shelves of your bookshelves. I then opened up a document in my word processor and added multiple copies of my photos and printed on good quality paper.

For the backing of your books you need some paperboard- you know a box from crackers or cereal of something like that.

Cut strips of the paperboard to the size of you finished books, cut out your printed pictures of the books, glue them onto the paperboard (leave room at the end for an area to fold back) then when the glue dries do the scoring and you have books!

I told you it was easy. 

Thursday, August 10, 2017

Tools for Making Dollhouse Miniatures- Scoring Board

Okay, would I go out and buy this tool just for making miniatures? Truthfully, no but since I do a lot of different crafts it I do feel I it was a good purchase. For minis it is a tool I use occasionally though and since so many of you asked what it was when I used it for a couple of tutorials a while back I thought a quick look was in order.

If you want to score a lot of straight lines very precisely this is your tool. For minis those lines might be a bit wide for really small projects. But if you put together a lot of printable crafts you might want to think about it. It is a lot quicker, easier and more accurate than using a straight edge to score. Also if you make boxes in miniature this is a a great tool. I think for making miniature books it would be handy too because you need to get those scored lines perfectly straight with each other to make them go together really nicely.

I'm really not trying to talk you out of buying this tool I just want to be sure you know that the uses for miniatures is limited. At least that is my opinion.

This is a tool I would say you want to wait for a sale or coupon to pick it up. I got mine for under/around $20 before coupon so not bad at all.

Sunday, July 30, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Easy Corner Roombox pt 9

First I want to apologize for being out of frame. I am trying filming in a slightly different location in the house and I need to find the perfect angle for the camera. Clearly the one I used this week was not perfect. Be patient and I am sure I will work it out.

This week we are finishing the Corner Roombox! Wow, I am kind of sad to see both to the big projects finished. Well, except for a doorknob, I need to come up with one of those but that will come later. I have tried a couple of things but wasn't happy with the results.

To finish the roombox we are finishing off the raw edges with a combination of wood strips and some paperboard (cereal box) strips. I am not sure what sizes of wood strips I got because the display at my local store was almost empty and what was there was all mixed up. The wide strip is about ½ ” wide the narrow strips are around ¼” both of these are 1/16” thick. The square piece is about 1/8” square. I wish I could be more exact but like I said I really don't know what the sizes were.

To prepare for the video I did paint the wood pieces to match the front door color.

Then the process is simply a matter of going around the structure and cutting pieces to fit and gluing them in place. Since it is not really practical to clamp or weight down the pieces we are gluing today I did find I had to check the strips about every 10 minutes and make sure they were staying where I wanted them to be. After a few checks where they were staying in place I let them dry before moving on. This takes a while but by only gluing one spot at a time it is easier to make sure everything stays in place.

Since my floor/base warped really badly I decided to glue my roombox to a wooden board. I had a piece of particle board left over from a repair in my bathroom and it was the right size so I used it. I simply spray painted it with a brown color to finish it off a bit.

Since the board was fairly rough I added some felt furniture pads to the bottom corners. I don't want to scratch any tables that I might set the box on for display in the future.

I do want to say I have made rooms like this before and never had the bottom warp like it did this time. I have a feeling it was caused by the extremely damp weather we were having when I did that step.

If I wasn't going to use my roombox for photos I would add a dowel or square strip wood as a support column to the outer corner. Since that would block camera angles I won't be doing that but if your box is just for display I do suggest it.

I hope you have enjoyed this series as much as I have.

Sunday, July 16, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Green Onions

I decided to take a break this week from our lighting series and our corner roombox to do a bit of clay work. Actually I thought I had done this tutorial a long time ago. I discovered I had never shown you how to make green onions in kind of a roundabout way. I have been doing a “Clay 101” series over on my 18” doll channel for the last few months and I decided I wanted to do a tutorial over there on green onions so I could show some of the techniques I had been teaching. The first thing I did was check this channel to see my notes from a tutorial over here so I could save myself a few steps. I do that often when I am doing tutorials on that channel, I look here first to see my notes then translate them to the larger scale. I was more than a bit surprised when I found I had never done a tutorial over here on green onions! How did I miss this one??? Anyway I decided to film both tutorials at the same time so both channels can learn how to do this.

Next week I think we will probably finish up the corner roombox (if I remember to pick up the supplies I need or come up with a different idea for finishing)

I know I did a tutorial a long time ago on this channel on how to do the skinner blend and if you need a refresher on how that works you can find it here. I do love using the skinner blend, I find it very relaxing to watch the blend come together.

The clays I used were:

Fimo white
Sculpey III translucent

mix these in equal parts for the white blend

Sculpey III String Bean
Fimo Translucent green (or the same translucent you used in the white blend)

mix these in equal parts for the green blend

I find it really useful to bake a sample of my clay blends when I am adding translucent clay to the mixture since the color of those blends changes a lot when baked.

Feel free to use the same plain translucent clay in both blends, I used the green translucent because I had a lot more of it than of the plain.

We want our finished green onions in this scale to be no bigger in diameter that 1/16th “ and about 1” long. Instead of measuring the diameter just make them as skinny as you can. They are going to be bigger than true “to scale” but get as close as you can.

Any time I am using a translucent clay I lower my baking temperature to 235° F because translucent clay has a bad habit of discoloring at higher temperatures. Bake these for about 10 minutes and allow to cool.  

Thursday, June 22, 2017

Tips for Dollhouse Miniature Crafting- Cleaning the Pasta Machine

Again this week if you are also following my Clay 101 series on my 18” doll channel you have already seen the majority of this content. Since I had filmed it and I thought that the information was perfect for a tips video I decided to use it for both channels. I hope you all don't mind too much.

The secret to successfully using a pasta machine for clay is really to keep it clean. The quick little tips I showed (especially wiping it with the wet wipe and running white scrap clay through) really will help to keep it clean. If you do those two things every time you use your pasta machine you won't have to deep clean it very often.

Just keep in mind to never use any tool to clean the pasta machine that could scratch the rollers. That is why I stick to wooden toothpicks and bamboo skewers. It might take a moment or two longer to clean with those than say a sharp metal instrument but the risk of ruining the rollers is too great. Once you have scratches on the rollers you will always have problems. 

Thursday, June 15, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Trash to Treasure Outdoor Planter

I think Mrs. Doll is very happy with her new planter.

This week's Trash to Treasure project is super easy and if you happen to have one of those coffee makers that uses the K-cups you have plenty of supplies on hand. I mostly use a reusable filter in my machine and I still manage to get a bunch of these cups really quickly. If you don't have one of the machines ask your friends I bet you will quickly find some one that can supply you with more K-cups than you can ever use. I even noticed my mechanic has one of these coffee makers in his waiting room now.

To turn the K-cup into a planter is really easy. After a thorough cleaning all you need to do is paint it. I like to use a spray primer that lists plastic as a material it will stick to then I can use any paint I want. In this case my regular acrylic craft paint.

I went ahead and “planted” my planter so you could see how easy that was to do and I think it turned out great. Even my 18 year old son agreed it looked like a real planter just the right size for the dollhouse.

Sunday, June 11, 2017

Dollhouse Miniature Easy Corner Roombox pt 8

This week we are finishing up the porch floor on our corner roombox. I decided to use plain old craft sticks for this project. They are fairly inexpensive and also pretty easy for most of us to get. I was out of my stash of them so I needed to make a trip to Michael's to pick up some more. I am going to tell you how that trip went so you can see how very important it is to both check the price when you pick up an item and then to watch the cash register at checkout time. Since I just had the one item it was a little easier to watch.

I had noticed a display of “summer kid's craft” items as I came in the door of the store. They were right there next to the door and on the middle shelf there were about 10 or 15 of the economy size boxes of craft sticks. The price on the shelf said $4.99. I grabbed a box as I went by and proceeded to look at several things in the store. I happened to go down the aisle where the craft sticks were normally placed and noticed that a lot of the small packages of wood items were around $4. I wanted to double check the price on the big box I had but there was no price on the shelf back there where the large boxes were. I then went back to the front of the store to double check that the price I saw was indeed for the item I had picked up and not the price for something else. I read the tag and it said it was for the economy box of craft sticks so I went ahead and got in line.

When my turn at the cash register came my box of craft sticks rang up at $7.99. I pointed out the cashier that the price was different on the shelf. She called for a price check but ended up going herself to check it. She also verified that the price on the shelf was $4.99 for this item. She of course made the adjustments for my purchase and since I had my Michael's rewards card pulled up on my phone she automatically gave me the 40% off coupon that was valid that day.

So in the end I paid $2.99 for an item that rang up at a much higher $7.99 in the first place. So the lesson here is if you know the price on the shelf was lower than what the cash register says point it out. Truthfully, I would have been happy with the $4.99 that the shelf said it was just extra nice to the coupon come off too.